The hot springs

“So, I just take my clothes off now?” I knew that this was a stupid question but it was all I could do to delay the inevitable.

Noriko nonchalantly said yes and began undressing. We were in something like a locker room at a hotel which features natural hot springs. I had walked into this adventure knowing full well what had to be done. Luckily, we had the place to ourselves; it was a weekday so we were conveniently missing out on the crowds.

We undressed, placing every stitch of clothing in the basket provided. I watched as Noriko fitted the full-sized towel she brought with her over the basket once it had her clothes in it. That’s strange, I thought to myself. How is she going to walk out to the hot spring without the…oh…slowly the realization dawned on me as she picked up the little hand towel and headed for the door. Trying not to balk at such an absurdity (what—no robe, no towel, no clothes), I did the same and followed her out the door.

We stepped out into the brisk fifty degree air. I continued to keep a close eye on Noriko as this whole scene was new to me. She walked over, ever so casually, to the faucets that were a few paces away from the hot spring and picked up a bowl. She filled it with warm water and poured it over her hands and feet. Then she turned, walked a few paces and stepped into the water.
Mutely, I did the same. I tried taking my mind off how strange all of this felt by noting my surroundings. We were kind of in an alcove, the open side giving way to a fantastic view of the sparse forest. Besides the wall to the hotel, there were bamboo type constructions for the other two enclosing walls. Besides that, we were more or less outside.

I was taking all of this in—trying to act like I hang out naked with my college girlfriends all the time—as I stepped into the scalding water. Now, I was kind of in a difficult spot because I had been telling myself that I would feel better (less exposed anyway) once I reached the water and hid myself in the depths. But submerging oneself into ninety degree water is not the same as diving into a swimming pool on a hot day. No, this required easing in slowly.

And I was in some seriously hot water. I couldn’t believe how hot it was, and that the water comes out of the earth that hot. My feet were gradually acclimating to the heat and I began to inch the rest of myself down into the sweltering pool. I watched clouds of steam billow out towards the trees as I ever so slowly slid down into the hot spring, finally submerged up to my shoulders and sitting on an underwater stone.

Out of nowhere, I heard a man laugh. I froze, as much as that is possible in a hot spring. Where the hell did that come from? Apparently, the men’s hot spring was on the other side of one of the bamboo walls. It was strange having them so close but out of view. How could we be sure that they could not see us?

After that, somehow I allowed myself to relax. The heat kind of melts away everything else. I stopped fretting over how I looked next to the 110 pound sliver of a girl sitting next to me. I stilled that voice in my head that kept saying oh-my-god-I-can’t believe-I’m-doing-this. I sat back and just delighted in the heat suffusing my every feature, drenching my senses. I listened to the water pouring into the pool, felt the moisture kissing my skin as I enjoyed the Zen-like peace.

Of course, you can only take that kind of heat for so long. I was glad to see Noriko climb out and sit on one of the rocks next to the springs. I lifted myself out of the water and took refuge on the edge of the pool as well. That felt amazing. The cool stones pressed up against my bare, pinked flesh. After letting ourselves cool down, we slipped back in for another round. We repeated this cycle about three more times before getting out, making the short trek back to the locker room, toweling off, and going to a different hot spring, one that overlooked the river. Hot spring hopping, a popular past time in Japan.

By that time, it was old hat. I didn’t even mind that we had company in the second one.

Sendai, Japan

Oishi

From the pictures, you might think that I spent the whole week eating. Well, eating was a big part of the trip. When Noriko had asked me what I want to do while I was in Japan, I more or less said shop, go to the Kabuki theater, and eat. Noriko is great, especially since she is always hungry. One of her favorite saying is "how about a snack?" From rice crackers to sushi, noodles or cake, a snack could be found anywhere and everywhere in Japan.

Presentation is a huge thing in Japan. Everything must look just perfect. We went to a fast food sushi restaurant where the sushi comes around on a conveyor belt next to the booths and you just pick up what you want. One hundred yen per plate (about a dollar). Each little plate had two pieces of sushi placed just so on the center of the plate. And the dishes! I loved looking at all the different little plates, bowls, and platters everything was served on.

I learned that slurping is something that you are SUPPOSED to do in Japan, especially when eating soup. That took some getting used to. I would slurp hestitantly and then look around, thinking my mom would somehow appear and give me that look, that what-the-hell-do-you-think-you're-doing scowl. It was explained to me that you more fully taste the soup when you slurp it. Men, don't try that at home or on your next date at a fancy restaurant (unless you want to get smacked upside the head). I also attempted to eat noodle soup with chopsticks. More slurping. Lots of it.

The first picture in this entry is of sake, Japanese rice wine. When a glass of sake is poured, the common practice is to fill the glass until the cup runneth over, literally. So a little lacquered box is placed under the glass to catch the overflow. Now that's my kind of pour (I wish they would do that with the wine in Thailand).

Some commentary

Writing about this adventure will require a different technique. I do not feel comfortable writing about a country as complex and elusive as this one, especially after only being here for a few days. I cannot seem to unlock the intricate golden treasure chest that is Japan. I imagine that there are foreigners who study the Japanese culture their whole lives and still feel like a child looking through a glass window with awe, admiring an exquisitely crafted and beautiful antiquity.

So instead of my verbose and lengthy prose, I will just list the random notes I have hastily tucked away in my mind as I have wandered around Tokyo and Sendai since Saturday.

The cherry blossoms are amazing. It was past the peak time in Tokyo but hasn’t quite reached the peak here in Sendai, but all of it has been beautiful. Like someone went around with a paint brush and painted little dabs of pink everywhere. The cherry blossom season is a special time here, a celebration of sorts. People spread out large tarps and feast around and under the trees—drinking, eating, laughing.

When it is springtime in the states, people can’t wait to break out their new spring clothes and throw open the windows. It’s not that way here. Currently it is springtime in Japan, the flowers are blooming, but people are still dressed in their drab winter colors, still bundled up in their coats, scarves, and hats. Heaters are still running. Windows shut tight.

The varying fashions can be quite surprising. Those pictures I posted were of everyday dress for some of the kids in the city. I admire their ability to ditch conventionality for what they really want to do. I’m glad that if you really want to be Pikachu, in Tokyo you can.

If you saw Babel, yes, there are girls who wear their little plaid skirts that short. No pictures because I didn’t want anyone to think I was a lesbian pedophile.

The food. Lots of raw fish (but not many fish eyes over here—thank you God). Lots of vegetables. Cabbage that I always considered garnish is actually eaten over here. Everything is beautifully displayed on lots of little dishes. Tea several times a day. In Noriko’s house, the dining room table is one of the low ones where you sit on the floor. I tried sitting on my feet with my knees bent. Ha! That was funny. I sat Indian style for a while, then stretched my feel out, then sat with my feet to the side. All of this while I’m trying to eat. It’s kind of hard to get comfortable sitting on the floor if you aren’t used to it. The second day, Noriko’s mom removed part of the tatami mat floor that exposed a heated well area and set up a low square table over it, that way you have a place to put your legs and feet down into. Much better.

I have finally learned how to use chopsticks. It was that or go hungry.

Noriko’s mom is an amazing cook. Last night we had tempura—eggplant, scallops, onions and baby shrimp, sweet potato, a yellow flower and some greens—all lightly battered and fried. Along with that we had rice, salad with fresh vegetables from the garden, and soup. For breakfast we had eggs, toast, salad, and soup. Yes, salad and soup for breakfast. Oishi (that means yummy in Japanese).

Japan is pretty damn efficient and eco-friendly. Small cars everywhere. Many people ride bicycles to work in their suits. They ride bikes when it rains, carrying an umbrella. They cart their trash to the trash pick-up areas on their bikes. I saw several bike parking lots—not bike racks, whole lots for bikes. Recycling is everywhere. Public transportation is amazing. In Tokyo there is an extensive subway, train, monorail, and bus system. And I didn’t see any of the smog and plumes of smoke from buses that I see in Bangkok.

There is little noise pollution. Tokyo is a huge city; I was expecting lots of noise. Not so. Very quiet. Strangely quiet.

Kimonos are not a thing of the past. I wouldn’t say they are everywhere, but they are definitely around. I bought a cotton one, a yukata.

I think I might have to bring an Asian baby home with me when I decide to settle down in one place.

The trains are always on time.

Japanese television is really quite comical. Lots of comedians. The people on the streets seem very reserved and proper but on television, everyone seems so outgoing and friendly and funny as hell.

Kabuki theater was interesting. Only male performers. People shout from the audience at certain times which seemed odd to me.

I just experienced my first earthquake. A small tremor anyway. Level two or three. The house shook briefly.

Baseball is huge over here. Have you checked out Ichiro?

Tomorrow, we will go to the hot springs. Ooh la la...

Out and about in the city

Springtime in Tokyo

Has this hit stateside yet?

Interesting.